Current watering restrictions and information
Wednesday, August 19th, 2009Follow this link for more information:
http://www.maltalandscape.com/cgi-bin/MySQLdb?VIEW=/events/viewone.txt&eventid=210
Follow this link for more information:
http://www.maltalandscape.com/cgi-bin/MySQLdb?VIEW=/events/viewone.txt&eventid=210
Cool season lawns (Fescue , Bluegrass) should be aerated and seeded every fall to stay thick and healthy. Unlike warm season lawns (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede), cool season lawns do not spread and require overseeding to fill in thin or bare areas. Cool season lawns should be aerated and seeded between September and November for best results. This will allow the new seedlings time to mature and develop a strong root system before the cold winter months. This will also ensure a thick, healthy lawn the following spring. Seeding a cool season lawn in the spring is not recommended in most cases. Spring seeding can interfere with spring Crabgrass pre-emergent treatments and cause weeds problems later in the year. Also, the root system normally does not have time to develop and mature before the hot summer months. This will cause cool season lawns to be more susceptible to insects, disease, and heat stress.
How to aerate and seed your lawn
1) First, scalp your lawn down to a 1″ height with a sharp mower blade. This will allow better seed to soil contact. Make sure to bag the clippings.
2) Rake any areas that have a heavy thatch layer (1/2″ or more). A little thatch is ok. This will help to retain some moisture.
3) Core aerate your lawn. Make multiple passes on areas with sever compaction.
4) Over seed your freshly aerated lawn with a certified seed that is suited for your climate.
5) Water, water, water! Water your lawn for short periods of time (10 to 15 minutes) once to twice a day, just enough to keep the seed moist for the first 7 days. Do not let the new seedlings dry out. Once the seed germinates you can start adding more time to your watering schedule but cut back on the frequency.
6) Apply a high phosphorus fertilizer at germination. For example, 18-24-12 is a good choice. The fertilizer can be applied at the time of seeding, but I prefer applying it at or after germination.
I do not recommend using wheat straw on bare areas. Wheat straw can sometimes have weed seeds in it. This can lead to weed problems in the spring. I have found that if the lawn is watered properly, wheat straw is not necessary.
Spring is the perfect time to scalp your warm season lawn (Bermuda, Zoysia). Scalping your lawn will help prevent thatch build-up and promote quicker spring green-up. We recommend scalping your lawn down to 1″ and bagging your clippings for best results. Click here for more information http://apps.caes.uga.edu/urbanag/Home&Garden/indexFS.cfm?storyid=2594 .
You can water newly seeded lawns. Follow this link http://www.maltalandscape.com/cgi-bin/MySQLdb?FILE=/index1.html for information and to register for the outdoor water use program.
Current watering restrictions (Note that watering-in of pesticide/herbicide applications is prohibited):
http://www.urbanagcouncil.com/docs/2008%20Outdoor%20Watering%20Restrictions.pdf
To sign up for the outdoor water use registration program go to:
Fireweed is a summer annual weed that pops up in lawn and landscape areas around May in north GA. Fireweed normally germinates in the thatch layer of lawns. Spring pre-emergents provide poor control of this pesky, fast-spreading weed. There is currently no preventative control for this weed.
Ways to help minimize Fireweed
Proper lawn maintenance is the best way to control Fireweed. Weekly mowing at the proper height will minimize Fireweed. Compacted soils with a thick thatch layer provide the perfect environment for Fireweed. Core aeration will help relieve compaction and break down thatch. Once Fireweed has germinated in a lawn, post-emergent herbicides can be used to control the weed. Click this link to learn more about Fireweed http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/erehi.htm .