Agropro Blog

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Cool season lawns (Fescue , Bluegrass) should be aerated and seeded every fall to stay thick and healthy. Unlike warm season lawns (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede), cool season lawns do not spread and require overseeding to fill in thin or bare areas. Cool season lawns should be aerated and seeded between September and November for best results. This will allow the new seedlings time to mature and develop a strong root system before the cold winter months. This will also ensure a thick, healthy lawn the following spring. Seeding a cool season lawn in the spring is not recommended in most cases. Spring seeding can interfere with spring Crabgrass pre-emergent treatments and cause weeds problems later in the year. Also, the root system normally does not have time to develop and mature before the hot summer months. This will cause cool season lawns to be more susceptible to insects, disease, and heat stress.

How to aerate and seed your lawn

1) First, scalp your lawn down to a 1″ height with a sharp mower blade. This will allow better seed to soil contact. Make sure to bag the clippings.

2) Rake any areas that have a heavy thatch layer (1/2″ or more). A little thatch is ok. This will help to retain some moisture.

3) Core aerate your lawn. Make multiple passes on areas with sever compaction.  

4) Over seed your freshly aerated lawn with a certified seed that is suited for your climate.

5) Water, water, water! Water your lawn for short periods of time (10 to 15 minutes) once to twice a day, just enough to keep the seed moist for the first 7 days. Do not let the new seedlings dry out. Once the seed germinates you can start adding more time to your watering schedule but cut back on the frequency.

6) Apply a high phosphorus fertilizer at germination. For example, 18-24-12 is a good choice. The fertilizer can be applied at the time of seeding, but I prefer applying it at or after germination. 

I do not recommend using wheat straw on bare areas. Wheat straw can sometimes have weed seeds in it. This can lead to weed problems in the spring. I have found that if the lawn is watered properly, wheat straw is not necessary.

Spring is the perfect time to scalp your warm season lawn (Bermuda, Zoysia). Scalping your lawn will help prevent thatch build-up and promote quicker spring green-up. We recommend scalping your lawn down to 1″ and bagging your clippings for best results. Click here for more information http://apps.caes.uga.edu/urbanag/Home&Garden/indexFS.cfm?storyid=2594 .

You can water newly seeded lawns. Follow this link http://www.maltalandscape.com/cgi-bin/MySQLdb?FILE=/index1.html for information and to register for the outdoor water use program.

Current watering restrictions (Note that watering-in of pesticide/herbicide applications is prohibited):

http://www.urbanagcouncil.com/docs/2008%20Outdoor%20Watering%20Restrictions.pdf 

To sign up for the outdoor water use registration program go to:

http://www.urbanagcouncil.com/

Fireweed is a summer annual weed that pops up in lawn and landscape areas around May in north GA. Fireweed normally germinates in the thatch layer of lawns. Spring pre-emergents provide poor control of this pesky, fast-spreading weed. There is currently no preventative control for this weed.

Ways to help minimize Fireweed

Proper lawn maintenance is the best way to control Fireweed. Weekly mowing at the proper height will minimize Fireweed. Compacted soils with a thick thatch layer provide the perfect environment for Fireweed. Core aeration will help relieve compaction and break down thatch. Once Fireweed has germinated in a lawn, post-emergent herbicides can be used to control the weed. Click this link to learn more about Fireweed http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/erehi.htm .

Turf care is normally the last thing on most homeowners’ minds during the winter months.  However, proper lawn maintenance during the winter months is the key to a lush, healthy lawn next spring.

Soil Test: Winter is the perfect time to have your soil tested. A soil test will determine the pH level of your soil and its nutrient levels. Click on the following link to learn more about soil testing: Soil Testing.

Fertilization: Winter fertilization is vital to the health of turf grass. Late fall and winter applications of fertilizer help lawns to develop stronger root systems and store energy for the following spring. Warm seasonal lawns (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede) should receive little to no nitrogen in late fall and winter; however, a high potassium fertilizer is ideal to strengthen their roots. Cool season lawns (Fescue, Bluegrass) should receive a balanced fertilizer including nitrogen to keep them healthy and green during the winter months.  

Weed Control: Winter pre-emergent treatments are extremely important for controlling winter annual weeds such as Poa Annua, Henbit, and Chickweed in warm season lawns. If pre-emergents are not applied in the fall and winter months, broadleaf and grassy weeds can infest an otherwise healthy lawn. Once Poa Annua germinates in a lawn it is very difficult to control. It will normally take several post-emergent treatments and warm soil temperatures (above 55 degrees) to burn it out. 

Mowing: Winter mowing is generally not necessary on warm season lawns. The mowing height can be raised on warm season lawns (2 to 3 inches) to help insulate and protect the root system. Cool season lawns may need to be mowed from time to time if the weather stays mild. The mowing height of cool season lawns should be between 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches. Remember to always mow with a sharp mower blade. Mowing with a dull mower blade will cause several avoidable problems such as excessive water usage, increased disease activity, and poor appearance.

Some pests, such as many of the wood-boring insects and canker-causing fungi, are opportunistic and become serious problems on trees and shrubs that are under stress. Inadequate moisture, excessive moisture, extreme temperature, unfavorable soils, improper plant placement, improper planting, and mechanical injury are all factors that can lead to insect and disease problems with many trees and shrubs. Most ornamental landscape plants require professional care to stay healthy and attractive. Regular fertilization, pruning, mulching and pest control are all part of a good landscape management program. 

Fertilization: Fertilization is a very important component of plant health care.  It is necessary to use fertilizers to maintain an optimum supply of nutrient and micro nutrients in the soil for optimal plant growth. There are a couple of effective methods to fertilize landscape plants: liquid soil injections, and granular applications.

Pruning: Pruning is an important tool for developing and maintaining healthy plants. Developing solid pruning objectives is important. By combining these objectives with a basic understanding of pruning and how plants respond, you can derive maximum benefit from the effort.

Mulching: Mulch is a vital part of the landscape. Mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil, minimizes weeds, and helps insulate the roots of plants from extreme temperatures during the summer and winter months. A thick layer of mulch (2 to 3 inches deep) not only improves the aesthetics of your landscape, but also greatly benefits plant material during periods of dry weather by retaining soil moisture, especially if watering is prohibited. 

Pest Control: Landscape plants that are routinely inspected for insect and disease problems are less likely to be damaged. Preventive insect and disease control applications will also lower the risk of plant damage. Proper fertilization will help to combat pests by keeping your plants healthy and supplying the nutrients necessary for improved growth and strength.